Stage 3 of 5
Palas de Rei → Arzúa
28.5 kilometres, the longest day of the stretch, with a reward halfway: the octopus of Melide, where the Francés meets the Camino Primitivo.
| Distance | Approx. time | Elevation | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| 28.5 km | ~6h45 | +491 m / −653 m | 3 of 5 |
It is the longest of the five stages and, in practice, the hardest too: there are no mountain passes, but the profile is a constant up and down over the streams that cross the route, above all in the second half, after Melide. The sharpest pull, shortly before getting there, is the one at O Coto.
The route, village by village
You pass San Xulián do Camiño (with the Albergue O Abrigadoiro, 15 €), A Graña (bar), Ponte Campaña (Albergue Casa Domingo, 15 €) and Casanova, which has its own pilgrim hostel at 10 € — this is the village sometimes confused with the 100 km marker, which is really three stages back. After O Coto, with its rural inn, come Leboreiro, with a church and a fountain, and Furelos, where you cross the river on a medieval bridge at the entrance to the village.
After Melide the route continues through Boente and Castañeda to Ribadiso de Baixo, by then only 4-5 km from Arzúa: one of the best-loved corners of the Camino, with its public hostel beside the river Iso and a medieval bridge next to it.
Where to sleep in Arzúa
The Xunta's public hostel is in the centre of town, at 10 €. Among the private ones: Albergue de Camino (16-18 €), Don Quijote (16 €), Vía Láctea (15 € a bunk, no private rooms, confirmed by the hostel in August 2026) and Los Caminantes II (14 €). Arzúa is also the capital of a cheese-making district: Arzúa-Ulloa, with its protected designation of origin, is about the best edible souvenir you can carry away. Guide prices for 2026.
This is the stage where the crowding steps up most, precisely because of the merge with the Primitivo at Melide. Stamp there — at a bar, the hostel or the tourist office — and again in Ribadiso or on arrival in Arzúa, which is what the pilgrim credential asks for. In high season it is worth reaching Arzúa before 13:00-14:00 if you want to avoid queues at the public hostels.
Sigue leyendo
Stage 2
Portomarín → Palas de Rei
24.8 km and the Alto de Ligonde, the highest point of the stretch.
Stage 4
Arzúa → O Pedrouzo
A comfortable 19.3 km through eucalyptus woods, with Santa Irene as an optional stop.
To repeat in Santiago
Where to eat in Santiago
Pulpo á feira, tarta de Santiago and the taverns of the old town, with real prices.

